Choosing the right lipstick undertone comes down to one thing: matching (or intentionally contrasting) the underlying colour in the lipstick with the undertone in your skin.
When the undertones agree, even a “bold” shade looks effortless. When they fight, the same lipstick can pull grey, orange, too bright, or make teeth look less white than you’d like.
I’ll show you how to spot cool vs warm vs neutral undertones, how to test lipsticks properly in real-world lighting, and which lipstick formulas from our tracked list make the whole process easier.
The basics: what “undertone” means in lipstick
Lipstick has an undertone just like skin does. It’s the subtle base colour sitting underneath the obvious shade family (nude, red, pink). A “red” can lean blue (cool), lean orange (warm), or sit balanced (neutral). Same for nudes and pinks.
Your skin undertone doesn’t change with a tan, but your surface tone can. In Australia, that matters because UV exposure shifts surface colour quickly—especially in summer—while undertone stays steady. So you can look more golden after a beach weekend, yet still suit the same undertone direction in lipstick.
Also: your natural lip colour affects everything. A sheer lipstick will mix with your lip pigment, so undertone reads differently than a high-coverage matte. That’s why I like to think in two layers: (1) your undertone and (2) the lipstick’s opacity and finish.
If you already track prices on GlamGeek, you’ll notice some lipsticks sit in a premium bracket. That’s not a deal-breaker. Undertone accuracy often improves with better pigment blends and more even laydown, so you don’t need as many “almost right” purchases.
How to find your undertone (quick tests that work)
I use a three-test method because any single trick can mislead—especially under Aussie bathroom lighting.
1) The jewellery test (fast)
Gold jewellery tends to flatter warm undertones. Silver tends to flatter cool. If both look equally good, you’re likely neutral.
2) The “white tee” test (more reliable)
Put on a plain white T-shirt, stand near a window, and look at your face and neck. If your skin reads more rosy, pink, or slightly blue, you lean cool. If it reads more yellow, peach, or golden, you lean warm. If you can’t decide, you’re probably neutral.
3) The “lipstick pull” test (the most practical)
Try one cool-leaning shade and one warm-leaning shade in the same depth. The one that makes your complexion look clearer (less redness around the nose, brighter under-eye area) usually matches your undertone direction.
For this last test, choose formulas that apply evenly so you judge colour, not patchiness. A satin makes undertone easier to read because it reflects light and shows nuance. The MAC Macximal Sleek Satin Lipstick (from A$49.00) helps here: it offers buildable, medium-to-full coverage and glides on with a cushiony coat of colour. It also contains hydrating castor seed oil, so you can do repeated swipes without your lips tightening up.
Want a second benchmark that sits in a different finish? The Nars Explicit Lipstick (from A$66.64) gives high-impact pigment in one swipe with a multi-dimensional satin finish and a creamy, hydrating glaze feel. That “one swipe” payoff makes undertone comparisons brutally clear.
Undertone vs finish: why matte can make a shade look “wrong”
Finish changes how undertone reads. A matte absorbs light, so the base tone looks stronger and sometimes deeper. A satin reflects light, which can soften a cool or warm lean and make a shade feel more forgiving.
If you’ve ever tried a warm nude matte that suddenly looked orange, that’s the matte effect. If you’ve tried a cool pink satin that looked wearable, then the matte version looked icy, same idea.
Here’s how I pick finishes based on undertone confidence:
- If you’re unsure of your undertone: start with a satin or shine formula so the colour reads softer on the lips.
- If you’re confident and want impact: go matte for crisp undertone definition and longer wear.
- If your lips run dry: choose nourishing ingredients so you can wear “tricky” undertones without texture stealing the show.
For a modern soft-focus matte (less stark than classic matte), I look at Prada Monochrome Soft Matte (from A$76.44). It offers buildable coverage with a diffused effect and uses Micro-Fit Technology to glide on with a weightless, non-flaking coat of colour. That non-flaking detail matters, because flakes create shadowing that can skew undertone.
For a classic comfortable matte with strong pigment, Nars Powermatte Lipstick (from A$58.80) delivers high-intensity pigment with a weightless feel and up to 10 hours of comfortable, colour-true wear. “Colour-true” is exactly what you want when you’re choosing undertone—less weird shifting as the day goes on.
And if you prefer liquid precision, Fenty Beauty Lip Paint (from A$47.04) gives rich, weightless pigments that dry down with an ultra-comfortable feel, plus a precision wand for controlled edges. Undertone looks sharper when the lip line looks clean.
Picking undertones for nudes (without looking washed out)
Nudes cause the most drama because they sit close to your skin tone. If the undertone clashes, your whole face can look flat, sallow, or overly made-up.
I pick nude undertone in this order: match your undertone direction first (cool/warm/neutral), then adjust depth second (lighter or deeper than your natural lip colour), then choose finish.
Cool undertone nudes usually read pink-beige, rosy beige, or mauve. They flatter cool skin because they echo that rosy base. If you go too pale in a cool nude, you risk “concealer lips”. A satin helps prevent that. The Nars Sensual Satins Lipstick (from A$49.98) offers richly pigmented satin colour and includes passion fruit seed oil and moringa extract to help preserve and enhance comfort. Comfort matters because cool nudes can emphasise texture if they’re too dry.
Warm undertone nudes lean peach, caramel, honey, or brown-beige. If you’re warm, a slightly golden nude can make your skin look even and sunlit—very “Australian summer” friendly. If you’re cool and you wear a warm nude, it can pull orange. That’s not always bad, but it becomes a statement.
Neutral undertone nudes look balanced: neither too pink nor too yellow. If you’re neutral, you can wear more shades, but you still need the right depth. I like a buildable satin here because you can sheer it out for day or build it up for night. Again, MAC Macximal Sleek Satin Lipstick (from A$49.00) works well: buildable coverage lets you land on “my lips but better” instead of “lipstick obvious”.
If you want a nude that behaves like “care + colour”, a sheer-to-medium shine formula can make undertone mistakes less obvious. Nars Afterglow Sensual Shine Barras De Labios (from A$53.90) delivers a lustrous look with sheer-to-medium coverage and includes mango and shea butter to help maintain hydration. That balmy feel also suits dry office air-con and long-haul flights.
Reds: the undertone rules that actually help in real life
Red lipstick scares people because it feels “high commitment”. Undertone makes it simpler.
Cool reds lean blue-based. They tend to make teeth look brighter and suit cool undertones because they harmonise with pink/rosy skin notes. A satin cool red looks classic; a matte cool red looks crisp and editorial.
Warm reds lean orange, tomato, or brick. They light up warm undertones and look especially good in summer when your surface tone runs more golden. If you’re cool and you wear a warm red, it can look loud fast—unless you keep the rest of the makeup minimal.
Neutral reds sit in the middle. They look “red-red” rather than pink-red or orange-red. They’re the safest blind buy if you truly can’t decide your undertone.
Formula matters for reds because reds show mistakes. If you want a red that stays put through heat and humidity, go matte and high pigment. Nars Powermatte Lipstick (from A$58.80) offers up to 10 hours of comfortable wear and aims to stay colour-true. That helps when you step outside into harsh UV and everything else on your face warms up.
If you prefer liquid for precision (and you like a sharp cupid’s bow), Fenty Beauty Lip Paint (from A$47.04) gives one-swipe rich pigment with a precision wand. Use the wand tip to sketch the edges, then fill in. Clean lines make undertone look intentional.
For a red that reads plush rather than flat, I reach for satin. Nars Explicit Lipstick (from A$66.64) delivers high-impact pigment with smudge-resistant coverage and a multi-dimensional satin finish. That dimension keeps reds from looking harsh on mature lips or anyone with natural lip lines.
Pinks and mauves: choosing flattering undertones by depth
Pink undertone decisions get easier when you stop thinking “pink” and start thinking “temperature + depth”. A pale cool pink can look icy. A deep cool mauve can look sophisticated and wearable.
Cool undertone pinks include rose, berry-leaning pink, and mauve. They suit cool undertones because they echo that natural flush. If you find cool pinks make you look tired, you probably chose the wrong depth. Go a touch deeper, or switch to satin so the light bounce brings life back into the face.
Warm undertone pinks include coral-pink, salmon, and peachy pink. These look fresh on warm undertones, especially with bronzed skin and minimal eye makeup. In high heat, a warm pink in a matte can read “too much”. A sheer shine often looks more relaxed.
Neutral pinks sit in the middle: not coral, not lilac. They’re the easiest “everyday” option for many people because they mimic natural lip colour but better.
For a nourishing, sheer-to-medium pink that lets your natural lip tone do some work, I like Nars Afterglow Lipstick (from A$53.90). The description matches the Afterglow Sensual Shine idea: colour-meets-care, lustrous look, and mango and shea butter for hydration support. Sheer coverage makes undertone experimentation low risk.
If you want pink with more structure and a soft matte statement, Nars Must-Have Mattes Lipstick (from A$49.98) gives intense pigment in a soft matte finish. It includes passion fruit seed oil to nourish lips with omega-6 and essential fatty acids. That matters because matte + pink can highlight dryness and make the shade look chalky.
And if you want a natural-luminosity style pink that doesn’t look too “done”, Dr. Hauschka Lipstick (from A$39.20) blends mineral pigments with medicinal plant extracts and offers a sheen finish. Sheen softens undertone edges, which helps if you sit in the neutral camp.
Swatching and lighting: how to stop getting fooled at the counter
The biggest reason people “pick the wrong undertone” comes down to lighting. Retail lighting runs warm. Car mirrors run harsh. Bathroom downlights turn everything yellow.
Here’s the swatch routine I trust:
- Swatch on the lip if possible, not just the wrist. Undertone reads differently against lip pigment.
- Check near a window for natural light. Step outside if you can. Australia’s daylight shows the truth fast.
- Look at your whole face, not just the mouth. The right undertone makes your skin look more even.
- Take one quick photo in shade. Cameras often exaggerate undertone shifts you miss in a mirror.
If you can’t swatch on lips (fair), do a stripe on the fingertip and tap it onto your lips like a stain. That gives a better read than the inner arm.
When you test, choose two finishes of the same shade family. Satin vs matte will teach you what you like. For satin, use MAC ximal Sleek Satin Lipstick (from A$49.00). For matte intensity, compare with Nars Powermatte Lip Pigment (from A$54.88), a liquid lipstick featuring a Fluid Pigment Complex designed for precision and pigmentation with a zero-gravity feel.
One more trick: if a shade looks perfect in-store but odd at home, it often means the lipstick undertone matches the store’s lighting, not your skin. That’s when I re-test in daylight before I decide it’s a “no”.
For Australians, I also factor in sun protection. I keep my face SPF consistent (see SPF Protection Products) because uneven tanning across the face can make lip undertone look less predictable week to week.
My practical undertone playbook (do this today)
If you want a simple plan that doesn’t require a full lipstick wardrobe, do this with two lipsticks and one lighting check.
Step 1: choose your “tester” formula.
Pick a comfortable satin that you can swipe on and off without stress. I’d start with MAC Macximal Sleek Satin Lipstick (from A$49.00) or Nars Explicit Lipstick (from A$66.64). Both give clear colour payoff.
Step 2: test temperature, not shade.
Try one lipstick that pulls cooler and one that pulls warmer within the same family (nude vs nude, pink vs pink). You’re not hunting “the perfect nude” yet. You’re hunting your direction.
Step 3: lock your “safe zone”.
Once you know you suit cool/warm/neutral, pick a formula and finish for your lifestyle:
- Heat-proof matte days: Nars Powermatte Lipstick (from A$58.80) for long wear.
- Soft matte but forgiving: Prada Monochrome Soft Matte (from A$76.44) for diffused colour that stays comfortable.
- Easy shine for everyday: Nars Afterglow Sensual Shine Barras De Labios (from A$53.90) with mango and shea butter.
- Precise liquid statement: Fenty Beauty Lip Paint (from A$47.04) for clean edges.
Step 4: do a two-light check before committing.
Look in indoor light, then natural light. If the lipstick still looks like it belongs on your face in both, you nailed the undertone.
If you want to browse by brand while you shortlist, GlamGeek also links out to brand hubs like MAC and other favourites such as Charlotte Tilbury or Shiseido. I use those pages to compare shade naming patterns, then I stick to undertone rules so I don’t get distracted.
Quick comparisons: which lipstick suits which undertone goal?
Undertone matching works best when the formula behaves predictably. Here’s how I think about the lipsticks in our tracked list when I’m choosing undertone with confidence.
When you want the truest read of undertone
Go for high pigment, even laydown, and minimal shifting.
- Nars Explicit Lipstick (from A$66.64): high-impact pigment in one swipe with smudge-resistant coverage and a satin finish.
- Nars Powermatte Lipstick (from A$58.80): bold matte pigment with up to 10 hours of colour-true wear.
When you want undertone to look softer and more forgiving
Choose shine or satin so light reflection blurs minor mismatches.
- Nars Afterglow Lipstick (from A$53.90): lustrous, sheer-to-medium colour with mango and shea butter.
- Nars Afterglow Sensual Shine Barras De Labios (from A$53.90): lightweight moisture veil feel and shine.
- Dr. Hauschka Lipstick (from A$39.20): mineral pigments with medicinal plant extracts and a natural sheen.
When you want a matte that doesn’t look flat
Pick a soft-focus matte that diffuses edges.
- Prada Monochrome Soft Matte (from A$76.44): diffused soft matte with a weightless, non-flaking coat.
- Nars Must-Have Mattes Lipstick (from A$49.98): soft matte with passion fruit seed oil for nourishment support.
Shopping note for Australians: you’ll often find NARS at Mecca, MAC at MAC counters and department stores like MYER, and Fenty Beauty at Sephora Australia. Stock and shade ranges vary store to store, so I always do the daylight check before I commit.
If you’re building a wider routine, keep categories separate when you compare. GlamGeek has hubs for makeup and even tools like Makeup Brushes & Applicators, but your undertone results should come from lipstick testing, not a different product type.
What undertone do you think you are—cool, warm, or neutral—and which shade family gives you the most trouble: nudes, reds, or pinks?
